Why Crimped Hair Is Making a Comeback
You remember the look. Maybe you saw it in an old photo of your mom from the 80s, or in a recent music video where a pop star rocked a modern, piecey version. That distinctive zig-zag texture, the incredible volume that seems to defy gravity, the way it turns simple hair into a statement. Crimped hair is back, but this time, it’s smarter.
Today, crimping isn’t about recreating the big, crunchy hair of decades past. It’s a strategic styling technique for anyone with fine, flat hair desperate for body, for people with straight hair craving effortless texture, or for those wanting a long-lasting base for updos that won’t fall flat. The goal is soft, touchable waves with incredible hold, not a helmet of hair.
If you’ve ever tried and ended up with a frizzy, triangular mess, you’re not alone. The difference between dated and dazzling comes down to technique, tool choice, and a few modern product secrets. This guide will walk you through everything, from choosing the right iron to creating looks that last all night.
Gathering Your Crimping Toolkit
You can’t build a house without the right tools, and the same goes for great crimped hair. Your results will depend heavily on what you use. Let’s break down the essentials.
The Right Crimping Iron for Your Hair
Not all crimpers are created equal. The most common type is the classic double-plate waver, with zig-zag grooves on both plates that press together. For a more subtle, wave-like result, a triple-plate waver (often called a “wave iron”) creates a looser S-pattern. If you’re after intense, geometric texture, a micro-crimper with very tight, small grooves is your pick.
Plate size matters. A wider plate (about 1.5 inches) covers more hair quickly and gives a softer, beachier wave. A narrower plate (around 1 inch) creates more defined, dramatic crimps and offers more control for shorter hair or face-framing pieces. For most people starting out, a standard 1-inch double-plate crimper is the most versatile.
Always opt for a tool with adjustable heat settings. Fine or color-treated hair should start low, around 280-300°F. Medium to coarse hair can handle 320-350°F. Ceramic or tourmaline plates are gentler and help distribute heat evenly, reducing hot spots that cause frizz.
Products That Prep and Protect
Product application is the step most people skip, and it’s the number one reason for bad crimping results. You need a foundation. Start with a heat protectant spray on damp, towel-dried hair. This creates a barrier against the high heat.
For hold and texture, a light-hold mousse or texturizing spray applied at the roots will give your hair some grit and help the style last. Avoid heavy gels or creams, as they can weigh hair down and make the crimps look greasy. A light hairspray is for finishing, not for pre-styling.
If you have very fine, slippery hair, a volumizing powder or dry shampoo at the roots before you start can be a game-changer for adding the necessary grip.
The Step-by-Step Crimping Process
With your tools ready, it’s time to create. The method is just as important as the tool. Rushing leads to uneven, patchy texture.
Prepping the Canvas
Begin with hair that is completely dry. Crimping damp hair is a recipe for sizzling, damage, and a style that droops as it cools. Blow-dry your hair straight or mostly straight. If your hair is naturally curly, you may want to run a flat iron over it first to create a smooth base; crimping on top of curls can become chaotic.
Section your hair thoroughly. This is non-negotiable. Clip the top half of your hair up. Then, divide the bottom half into horizontal sections about 1-2 inches thick. Working in small, manageable sections is the secret to even, consistent crimps from root to tip.
The Crimping Technique
Take your first bottom section. Comb it through to ensure no tangles. Starting about an inch from your scalp (to avoid a bulky root), clamp the crimping iron onto the hair. Hold for 5-8 seconds, depending on your hair’s thickness and the heat setting.
Release, then slide the iron down directly below the first crimp, aligning the grooves. Clamp again. Continue this process all the way to the ends. The key is to move in a slow, steady, vertical line down the hair shaft, not at an angle.
Once the entire underlayer is done, unclip the top section. Divide it and repeat the process. For the hair around your face, consider using a slightly lower heat setting and crimping away from your face for a flattering frame.
Finishing for a Modern Look
Once every section is crimped, you’ll likely have a very uniform, sometimes harsh texture. This is where you modernize it. Flip your head over and gently run your fingers through the roots to break up the pattern and add volume. Do not use a brush, as it will create frizz.
Turn your head right-side up. Use your fingers to lightly separate and “shake out” the crimps. You want to soften the defined zig-zags into a more blended, wave-like texture. If pieces are too perfect, gently twist them between your fingers to loosen them up.
Finish with a flexible-hold hairspray, holding the can about 10 inches away for a light mist. For extra texture and piecey-ness, you can rub a tiny amount of pomade or wax between your palms and lightly scrunch the ends.
Troubleshooting Common Crimping Problems
Even with the best technique, things can go sideways. Here’s how to fix the most frequent issues.
The Dreaded Frizz and Flyaways
Frizz usually means one of three things: your hair wasn’t fully dry, your iron is too hot for your hair type, or you’re using the wrong product. Lower the heat setting. Ensure you’re using a heat protectant that contains smoothing agents like silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone).
If frizz appears after styling, a single drop of hair oil or serum rubbed between your palms and smoothed very lightly over the surface of your hair can tame it without flattening the volume. Avoid applying oil at the roots.
Crimps That Fall Out Too Quickly
If your beautiful texture goes flat in an hour, the culprit is often product-related or due to hair type. Fine, silky hair needs that texturizing pre-styling product for grip. Try a stronger-hold mousse or a texturizing spray applied to dry hair before you section.
Also, check your technique. Are you holding the iron long enough? On coarse or thick hair, 5 seconds might not be enough to set the style. Try holding for a full 8-10 seconds per clamp. Finally, make sure you’re not applying heavy conditioner to your roots on wash day, as this can make hair too slippery to hold a style.
Avoiding the “Triangle Head” Shape
The classic fear of 80s hair is volume at the bottom with no root lift, creating a triangular silhouette. The fix is in the sectioning and finishing. When you crimp, start at least an inch from the scalp. Do not crimp your roots.
After styling, focus on adding volume at the crown. Flip your head over, spray a light-hold volumizing spray at the roots, and massage them with your fingertips. You can also use the cool shot button on your blow dryer to set the roots while flipped over. Backcombing very gently at the crown is an option, but be careful to avoid tangles.
Creative Styles Beyond the Basic Crimp
Crimped hair is an incredible base for other styles because it has so much grip and volume. Don’t just wear it down.
Half-Up, Half-Down Majesty
This is where crimped hair truly shines. Gather the top section of your hair, but instead of making a sleek ponytail, gather it loosely. The texture will give the style a cool, effortless vibe that a sleek ponytail can’t match. Tease the crown slightly before gathering for even more volume.
The Ultimate Textured Ponytail or Bun
If your hair is too slippery for a bun that stays, crimp it first. Crimp all your hair, then gather it into a high ponytail or bun. The texture gives the elastic something to hold onto, and the style will look fuller and last all day. Pull out a few face-framing pieces and crimp them separately for a soft finish.
Braiding Over Crimped Hair
Braiding already-crimped hair creates a fascinating, intricate texture that looks far more complex than it is. Try a simple side braid or a crown braid. Because the hair is textured, the braid will look fuller and the pattern will be more defined, with less chance of pieces slipping out.
Making Your Crimped Style Last Overnight
You put in the work, so why not make it last a second day? The good news is that crimped hair, due to its set pattern, is excellent for next-day wear.
Before bed, gather your hair loosely at the crown of your head with a silk or satin scrunchie into a very loose, high ponytail (a “pineapple”). This prevents you from crushing the texture while you sleep. Even better, use a silk or satin pillowcase to minimize friction.
In the morning, take the hair down, flip your head over, and shake it out. The roots might need a refresh. Use a dry shampoo or volumizing powder to absorb any oil and add lift back at the crown. Gently re-separate any sections that got flattened, and you’re good to go. Day-two crimped hair often looks even softer and more lived-in.
Your Path to Perfect Texture
Crimping hair is a skill that blends the right tool with a mindful technique. It moves far beyond nostalgia into a reliable method for achieving volume, grip, and style longevity that few other techniques can match. Start with well-prepared, dry hair, invest in a good adjustable iron, and never skip the sectioning.
Remember, the goal isn’t perfection. It’s texture, body, and a touch of playful rebellion against flat, boring hair. Experiment with different plate sizes, try it as a base for your favorite updo, and don’t be afraid to break up the pattern with your fingers. With this foundation, you can adapt the classic crimp to create a look that is entirely, uniquely yours.
